90/10 Viura/Malvasia. 6 or more years in barrel. These wines are still fined with egg whites, a practice which speaks to the unyielding traditionalism of its makers, three sisters who are the fourth generation to run the winery.
It was a good year. This was a wine of depth and mystery. Drinking beautifully, but every sip hinting at something in reserve. Quietly aromatic, slightly oxidative, tautness without acid. A muscular and graceful poise.
Oh Montevertine. The first of many middle fingers raised to the Consorzio, and still one of the very best. Nearly all Sangiovese, the remainder Canaiolo, and the odd drop of Colorino. Also from a good year, as evidenced by the existence of Pergole Torte from that vintage. Not light, but with an impression of lightness created by perfect posture. Old fruit sighing out the last of its freshness, leather, the expected aromatics, but all thrown into a new light by that perfect, perfect carriage. Too little of this to go round.
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